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Paprika - 03/07
Paprika, Horndean
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Pre dinner drinks at the Colonial Bar. Shock at plans to scrap line outs in Rugby Union!
Perversion of the institution that is! Meanwhile, a conversion away, Paprika awaited our
arrival.
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PLACE on first floor of 50’s prefab, straddling an underpass, from the outside has all the
romance of motor way service caf. Up the stairs mister and a cool interior greets, waiters
in black, chocolate brown high backed leather seats.
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SERVICE excellent, most courteous, though we were only guests.
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As for the FOOD, there was plenty, served in deep square ceramics. Resolved to eat myself
fitter. Pilau rice for everyone, naans too. Meaty fare inclusive of excellent blood orange
Gujerati Lamb, tangy, spicy with potato and green chilli, hot Jalfrezi, gorgeous coconut
overtones in a Lamb Bhuna. Vegetables excited the taste buds too, Bombay Aloo, perfect
Saag bhajee, a controlled explosion of ginger, garlic and mustard, a light Okra dish and an
earthy chick pea curry.
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Beforehand we enjoyed pleasant meat samosa, a chewy gooey onion bhajee with weirdly
textured chicken tikka, kinda pulpy. White wine, fine, medium dry sherry, Harvey’s Bristol
cream (!) - I was well satisfied, past fussing, indeed it rounded off rather good meal.
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Coming full circle, in SUMMARY on first impressions, Paprika delivers good, clean*
contemporary Indian restaurant cuisine.
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On Easter Saturday with mates down from London. In at 7, thin with fat wallets out at 9 fat
with no wallet, later discovered in never before explored bowels of coat. Having friends in
the art insurance business has its perks, i.e. they can afford 2 whole restaurant meals
(PRICES just above curry house norm).
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Of course they couldn’t eat that amount of food on their own especially as Paprika portions
are big, gravy a plenty plus house wine fills large glasses to the brim. After Poppadoms,
Tandoori Mixed Kebab included a remarkably spicy sheek, adipose, juicy and delicious, melt
in mouth lamb tikka and stringy chicken tikka.
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A Passover feast had to involve Lamb, so I chose Lamb Tikka Dhansak (£7.50) – excellent
meat, big chunks that fell obligingly apart at merest suggestion of a blade, blood orange
lentil sauce smooth as satin, more sweet than sour with heady taste of coriander.
Vegetables (£3.25) included Saag Aloo, moist, mixed veg, mostly cauli/aloo but with a
pleasant mush of peas, tomato and onion, not forgetting another good bindi bhajee. In five
words - Bright colourful people, generous grub (though food dye is applied so the phrase is
reversible).
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