Will writes...

Taste of India, Emsworth (April 2007)

Tiny PLACE, 28 covers, at the top of slip road leading to grey green sea. 

SERVICE measured, pleasantly unassuming, diners encouraged to linger in warm, cosy cottage environs.  Small menu of simple curry house dishes at standard PRICES.  Commendation in Cobra Good Curry Guide 2007 can only come from a group of very loyal customers, so loyal they’ve never eaten ‘Indian’ (or bastardised Bangladeshi) anywhere else.  Quite possible as restaurant ideal run ashore for Emsworth folk tired of drifting idly about in their yachts, lazy sunbathers, surviving (oh and only just!) on canapes ya? 

Reality:  there’s better curry to had around.  FOOD like the towns casual sailors too rich.  Hard to fault warming Mulligatawny Soup but its easy to do.  Generous servings of Lamb Tikka Sag (on request), Tarka Dhal, cloying.

Iron flavour of Spinach and sweet tender meat lost in ghee, likewise the dall, all butter and garlic.  Oddly pilau rice and a Vegetable Biriyani bland, absent of alluring aromas.  Enjoyed ambience, evening sun shone with Turneresque brilliance but my SUMMARY sets Taste of India in a rather dim light (think those ‘energy saving, eco friendly, weaker than a pocket torch light bulbs).